You bet we do Dave!
Okay, I've managed to get back in the shop a bit, been digging up gravel with my tractor and getting my road back in shape so I don't tear out the bottom of my Honda........
Got the braces on the top carved and tapping good. I tell you though, I'm finding this thermo-wood to be pretty dang brittle stuff. In carving one of the braces I wasn't being careful enough in keeping it all well supported and had the end of a brace pop up from the back. Now the glue didn't let go, the glue held but the top kind of split or sheared, thickness wise, not a crack along the grain. I was able to work some glue into it and glue it back in the go-bar deck.
Now this top is braced to a 12' radius and I've always just carved them on flat carpeted surface and never had any problems, but with this stuff I see I need to work on my radius board so everything is better supported.
Working my back braces with the block plane.
And how's that for action shots?
And back braces all carved. You'll notice that I am working the braces with the back clamped into my radius dish giving me better support and no problems.
And there they are ready to glue to the rims.
I also ran into that splintering problem when I was chiseling the slots for the back braces from the back cross-grain seam support. Usually I cut on each side for the brace and then can just pop out the piece in between pretty easily. This stuff the glue, Elmer's carpenters glue, holds and the back wood wants to pop up instead. Separating, so I had to be very careful chiseling it out.
Thinking about the brittleness of the cooked wood makes me think tucking the ends of your braces is probably a good idea. I usually just fade mine out to nothing before they hit the kerfing, letting the top move a little more. Others tuck their brace ends to give more protection from a brace end peeling away from the top in case it gets a blow. With this stuff the glue won't peel away, but sure looks like the top might.
I don't know, just looking down the line........