The Luthier Community

Bracing the Back and Top -

Ever wonder why it's not the back and front or top and bottom??? But I digress.

I didn't take any pictures of the process but the way I cut my braces out is to first split the billet along the grain line, then cut the braces to overwidth, run them through the drum sander to get them to width, draw the contour of the arch and cut on the bandsaw, then sand on the radius dish. Once I have the radius in the brace I mark it to length and height and cut it out on the bandsaw. I number each brace and draw an arrow pointing to the curved side.

For this guitar I used cedar braces on the back and spruce on the top. I like the contrast of the cedar on the maple.

On the back I glue a single cross-grain strip the length of the back to cover the seam and then cut out the areas where the braces go. I find it easier to cut out the area where the brace goes than to line up several strips of back reinforcement and have them come out in a straight line. When I glue a top together I use the area above and/or below the outline to make my own reinforcement strips.

For the SG I use 4 braces but keep them all tall and thin. I also glue them in first and then profile them.


For the top I draw the brace positions onto the top itself, cut out a Hard Maple bridge plate, mark and cut-out the slots for the x-brace, and then I usually glue in 2 stages with the first stage being the x-brace and bridge plate and the second stage being all the rest of the braces. I wasn't done with the x-braces yet so I glued the bridgeplate on by itself and then followed with the x-brace. Felt it was harder to keep the bridgeplate from shifting and won't go that route again. Worked out, just not as easily. Here is the second stage with the x-brace.

and the 3rd stage with all the rest (minus the braces around the soundhole)


Next comes the profiling...

Raymond

Looking good Raymond,
So that's where all the go-bar sticks are!
Just thinking of all the kids that probably don't have sticks for their kite,
Joe

Oh I couldn't bare to see those kids without their kites...

I found bamboo rods in the garden section of the local Home Despot. Cut them off to usable lengths and got those rubber tips from the closet organizer section of the same store. Had to learn how to judge the stiffness as they are all different, but a bag of around 20 or 30 cost me about 3 dollars. I think I paid more than that for the rubber tips...

Raymond

Hi Ray

Just got a chance to catch up on your building activity.

Great to see you are FINALLY getting that holder made.

Steve

Things have been hectic at the Feissli Household, but I have been catching time in the garage as I can.

With the Humidity levels rising and falling almost as quickly as the stock market, I've had to glue braces as the opportunity provided. Got them all glued in and carved though...


In case anyone is wondering, the customer is just learning to play so I'm bracing it for light strings and a softer action, which is how I like my braces anyway since I play fingerstyle and never really hit the strings hard. I start out with the profile of a 1938 herringbone, and basically adjust it to take wood away from anywhere that seems overbraced for the stringload. Most of the bending strength of the brace comes from the height so I keep the braces narrow and tall. I also read in a couple of places that keeping the bridgeplate away from the X really opens up the sound, so I carve away the bridge plate slightly.

I tap as I go, but I'm listening for the point where it just starts to change to a 'flatter' bong without the high overtones. Not the way I want the final product to sound, but I think I get the tightness back once attached to the rim.

After carving, I sand everything up through 220.

I'm definitely no expert, but that's how I clean the pig.

Raymond

I like to fit the top and back to the rim before I glue either on, so while it's still in the form I mark the braces and cut the slots. This one is getting a sound port as well so I only want to glue the top on before I do the port.

I glued the top on while it was still in the form.


Then cleaned up the overhang.



I've done some more work on the soundport, but those pictures are still in the camera.
Raymond

Looking good Raymond, nice clean build. Debbie's going to be pleased!

Joe

Nice work, Ray!

Please document as much as you can the port construction - from the initial planning to the edge treatment. They are still a bit mysterious to me.

Dennis